Sunday 2 June 2013

Psyched - Promanade

I met up with some friends Phil and Drew today, these guys have been pushing the limit lately ticking off some pretty impressive lines at the top end of the sport grades so I though it would be good to go along and try get a little involved, we headed to an area called the promenade in swanage, the routes here are mostly in the 7s and all steep and technical so I was curious to see how id get on, I have been doing lots of work in the gym lately training for something else so I know my strength is up at the moment but the stamina could be my fault and a problem.
The guys warmed up on an easy line but for some reason I decided to jump straight on a route called "big brother is watching" a roofed 7a+ that's description reads "a mighty technical problem"... what was I thinking...

I tied in and went for it, the first section was pretty easy, I climbed up clipped the draw just before the crux and then down climbed a little to a good rest, after chalking I went for it, the crux was pretty hard, it went through a roof system with not the best holds, but surprisingly I managed to hold on push through, and before I knew it I was on fairly easy ground again, I climbed to top and clipped the lower off, I was so psyched as this is the first time I've managed to flash/onsight 7a.

I then spent some time watching Phil and Drew work a really tough 7b+ called "Electric circus". the route looked so hard, even Phil who as been climbing very hard lately put it up there as being harder than 7c routes he had done, after a while playing He managed to get the redpoint and gain the tick, was really impressive to watch, this lad is getting stronger and stronger by the week. Drew was also working the route and came close but didn't quite manage it.

I had a little look at another route call "Mr Gymnasia" I spent a little time working the low crux out but took a little fall and burnt my arm quite bad on the rope, so I lowered of and decided to chill for the rest of the day.

I am so psyched now to step up my training and get back down here, there is so much to do and all the routes are just amazing lines...


Abbing into the promanade

Phil & Drew warming up on "Flail Trail"



Phil on the crux of "Electric Circus" 7b+

Drew like a kid in a sweet shop

Onsighting "Big brother is watching"

Onsighting "Big brother is watching"




Drew working "Electric curcus"


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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end