Sunday, 30 December 2012

california Waves...

With all the rain lately I didn't think it would be possible to climb today but after buying the new reel rock tour 7 DVD and getting inspired I was going wind rain or snow..
Myself and Phil planned on looking at a route in the Cheyne wears area called "Road Rage". I met Phil at car park and we headed on down, the swell out at sea was incredible, the waves must of been around 15ft high and hitting the shores causing masses of spray, we ditched the bags and scrambled across the boulders to check the condition of the route, it was a case of dodging the waves as they splashed up and hit the face, the route being at the top end of the 7's we decided to change the plan.
With the only other crag on the island with possible dryness being the cuttings we decided to head there.
We didn't really have any projects there so we ditched the draws and got the bouldering mats out to try a few new problems,
We headed down to the Problems id been trying whilst injured, Harmaggeddon, After working it for a short while Phil managed to send it, i had a few goes and manged to work out a sequence to finish the route, but due to lack of climbing and stamina i felt tired moving towards the end, this will defiantly go next visit.
Phil also manged to send Blood bath V6 and the new line "Lost decade which goes at V6, I have already done these so didn't bother trying them again.
We moved onto a nice V7 called Hot Ride.. amazing problem, powerful compression moves to a dynamic sloper, my style of route.. we both had a few goes before getting closer and closer to latching the sloper but then came the rain.. we carried on for a while but withing moments the problem was now a kayakers dream.. we packed up and headed up to the main wall.
We walked round to the lower cuttings area and bumped into a few other boulderers from Devon, one of the lads was trying the Portland testpeice Guy Fawkes V11, he was so close to ticking it, he climbed through the crux and somehow manged to fall off on the easier bit, i have no dowt that he will climb this by the end of the day or in the near future. Phil had a little go at phat slapper but with the final hold being engulfed in a puddle we decided to call it a day..
I'm feeling pretty psyched at the moment and with the Kandersteg trip coming up I'm ready to crush, I have big plans to push beyond my limit next year in the mountains and hopefully all the training and psyche will take me there..

Phil moving into the crux of Blood Bath V6

Phat Slapper V5

Phat Slapper V5

Crux move onto the sloper finsh hold.. Phat Slapper V5

Ellis close to sending Guy Fawkes V11

Those crimps are pretty damm small.

Sunday, 16 December 2012

Under Durress

Didnt climb today as still resting rescent finger injury but headed down to the cutings to watch Phil and Ian working "Under Duress" 7c+ managed to get a few nice pictures.

Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end