Thursday, 27 June 2013

A few Shots from resent Alpine trip...

Not a Bad place to pee

Climbers heading towards the Midi Plan Traverse

A little rest of the classic cosmiques Arete

Looking across towards the Geant and Jorrasse

Amazing sunset and the end to an awesome day in the mountains

Climbers/Skiers dwarfed by the Mont Blanc massif

Sunday, 16 June 2013

Blackers Quarry

I took a stroll down to a new area today to see what it had to offer, It had only just been re bolted so I wanted to see what it was like. We parked at Langton house carpark and made the walk down, this was made a little interesting by the poor route finding from Phil who some how managed to take us through a wood of stinging nettles, thorn bushes and snakes but we eventually made it to the crag, the walk down was a climb in so its not a child friendly area.

The routes consisted of pretty steep roofs, I wasn't too impressed at the quality of the rock and the tops looked so dangerous, Phil and drew jumped on a short 7b and had a play, they could'nt seem to work the crux section so called it off, me and James Jumped on a cool looking 7a+ that went up a steep corner with overhangs, the route was nice climbing but spoilt by the condition of rock and loose sections.. after this I wasn't happy to try any of the other climbs as it just didn't feel safe, In the alps on a big route id probably take the chance but a sport route in Swanage is no way worth the risk.

The rest of the guys decided to head to dancing ledge but due to time I had off. Although not allot climbing had it was still nice to get out, one thing gained from today is that I know not to visit this crag again...

Looking Into Blackors Hole

Strong winds today.. promenade out of reach

Vera playing with her new camera

Sunday, 9 June 2013


There's a daunting feeling when your abseiling into the depths of the promenade, its almost as if the cliff face swallows you and makes you feel you've been transformed into a different world, the walls are steep, the rock is in great condition and the with waves crashing close by its got to be one of the best sport climbing venues on the south coast.

Phil had is heart set on having a look at the "Rise of the Robots". A really steep route with some very dynamic moves put this 7c up there with the best of them, after putting the clips in place and having one little play, he decided to go for it, I belayed him while his worked his way across the roof, as he moved into the crux and made the dynamic move to the break I could see he was tiring, he made the move and with a loud scream managed to stick it, a few shouts of encouragement from me and drew and some impressive climbing see him clip the lower off, I got to say it was probably one of the most impressive bits of climbing I've seen in a long time and this boy is defiantly getting strong.

Myself and drew climbed a nice 6b+ called "titter ye not Mrs" the start was very steep but had good holds, with the top having to off the worst rock overs Ive ever experience, one taking allot skin of my legs.

I then Tried a 7a+ called "two tickets to a gun show". a line that took an overhanging arĂȘte, the crux was low and after trying a few ways around it I ran out of steam and blew my onsight, I eventually made it past the crux and carried on up the route with the top half being fairly simple, by this time I was pretty tired and with a slight twinge in my right shoulder I called it a day, I will need to get back down there and get this finished.

Drew also tried it but seemed to have the same problem as me, Phil jumped on and also came foul to the crux, but after working it out he lowered to ground then went for it and gained the tick.
We decided to call it a day as time was getting on and the waves were getting closer, we ended the day with a nice pint and some chips down in the Swanage town.

Another amazing days climbing in a great setting with amazing friends.....

Not a bad place to grow

Drew abbing into the playground

Warming up on the flair trail

Drew on the flair trail

pretty steep "titter ye not mrs"

Phil moving into the crux of "Rise of the robots" 7c

Me on "titter ye not mrs"

Me on the crux moves of "two tickets to a gun show" 7a+

Sunday, 2 June 2013

Psyched - Promanade

I met up with some friends Phil and Drew today, these guys have been pushing the limit lately ticking off some pretty impressive lines at the top end of the sport grades so I though it would be good to go along and try get a little involved, we headed to an area called the promenade in swanage, the routes here are mostly in the 7s and all steep and technical so I was curious to see how id get on, I have been doing lots of work in the gym lately training for something else so I know my strength is up at the moment but the stamina could be my fault and a problem.
The guys warmed up on an easy line but for some reason I decided to jump straight on a route called "big brother is watching" a roofed 7a+ that's description reads "a mighty technical problem"... what was I thinking...

I tied in and went for it, the first section was pretty easy, I climbed up clipped the draw just before the crux and then down climbed a little to a good rest, after chalking I went for it, the crux was pretty hard, it went through a roof system with not the best holds, but surprisingly I managed to hold on push through, and before I knew it I was on fairly easy ground again, I climbed to top and clipped the lower off, I was so psyched as this is the first time I've managed to flash/onsight 7a.

I then spent some time watching Phil and Drew work a really tough 7b+ called "Electric circus". the route looked so hard, even Phil who as been climbing very hard lately put it up there as being harder than 7c routes he had done, after a while playing He managed to get the redpoint and gain the tick, was really impressive to watch, this lad is getting stronger and stronger by the week. Drew was also working the route and came close but didn't quite manage it.

I had a little look at another route call "Mr Gymnasia" I spent a little time working the low crux out but took a little fall and burnt my arm quite bad on the rope, so I lowered of and decided to chill for the rest of the day.

I am so psyched now to step up my training and get back down here, there is so much to do and all the routes are just amazing lines...

Abbing into the promanade

Phil & Drew warming up on "Flail Trail"

Phil on the crux of "Electric Circus" 7b+

Drew like a kid in a sweet shop

Onsighting "Big brother is watching"

Onsighting "Big brother is watching"

Drew working "Electric curcus"

Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end