Wednesday, 31 August 2011

Eiger Monch traverse Plans

Next Wednesday I'm heading out to Grindlewald for four days to try and complete the Mitillegi Ridge and the Monch Traverse, Although Ive already climbed the Mitillegi ridge before I am really looking forward to it again, this time though rather than just descending down the south western ridge back to the Monch hut I am going to try and continue on up on the North east ridge of the monch and over the summit of the monch back down to the hut, obviously this is all going to depend on conditions, weather and any mishaps which may occur along the way, this is going to be pretty demanding and we are going to have to move pretty quick to get the route completed, I have been training pretty hard over the past few months and I'm felling pretty fit and strong I also have a good strong partner so lets hope all goes to plan....

Eiger-Monch Traverse

Sunday, 21 August 2011

Winspit Quarry

Today we headed into winspit for some more bolt clipping, I was in a photo mood today so apart from a nice little 6b I didn't really climb that much, the day did see a good lead from Phil on the tough "the vixen Bitch from hell" 7a+ , Paul also manged to bag his second 6a lead on "nine years absence", Overall another good day at the crag which was ended with a nice cold pint of cider in the square and compass..

Some bad news on the way home of one of the red arrows in the Bournemouth air festival crashing was a shock, big condolences the John Egging family, a great pilot and truly talented man...

Phil getting his redpoint on "The vixen bitch from hell" 7a+

Paul getting his second 6a lead on "nine years absence"

Paul on "Nine years absence" 6a

Me on "Any old time" 6b

Stu on the classic 6a+ "Unseen ripples of a pebble"

Paul attempting an osight of "Unseen ripples of a pebble"

Phil on "The vixen bitch from hell" 7a+

Phil on "The vixen bitch from hell" 7a+

Phil on "The vixen bitch from hell" 7a+

Paul on "Nine years absence"

The Red Arrows " In memory of John Egging"

Thursday, 18 August 2011

The wildest dream

Around four months ago I was introduced to guy called Paul Keleher. Paul had a dream to go from never climbing anything to climbing to the summit of Everest within a year, at first I was a little surprised and conscious of his ambitions and concerned that he wasn't sure what he was letting himself in for, I was asked if I would spend some time with Paul teaching him how to climb and giving him all the necessary skills he required to venture into the mountains, I am no ueli steck or a qualified instructor but I still felt I could at least give Paul some insight into mountaineering and a good understanding of the skills required to live out his dream. Ive spent the last few months climbing with Paul in the alps, at the Dorset sea cliffs and also down the local wall, we have had two small successful alpine trips managing to climb routes such as the cosmiques arete, pointe lachenal and the forbes arete. The forbes arete was a real test for Paul with some 18hrs of solid alpine climbing due to bad weather which really put him to the test. Paul has since then gone on to complete a ten day training course in the alps with adventure consultants to learn more skills and techniques to becoming a successful mountaineer.

Me Paul and Scott Bivying at the foot of the Forbes Arete
On August 27th Paul is leaving for the Himalayas for six weeks to attempt to climb the sixth highest mountain in the world Cho Oyo. this mountain stands at a massive 8201metres (26906ft) and ain't going to be easy, this is going to be a real test for Paul which will need fitness and pure determination which getting to know Paul quite well I know he has.  This will also give him a good idea of what altitude is all about and also see if his body can physically handle it before his attempt on Everest come next March.
Hopefully when Paul returns he will still be thriving a thirsty for more, I'm sure we will have many winter trips together which i look forward too, then come March Paul will be going back to the Himalayas to attempt the highest mountain in the world. Mount Everest stands at 8848metres above sea level, that 29029ft, the height where it is impossible for the human body to survive. He will be tested beyond belief and pushed to the utter limits of human nature before hopefully setting foot on the highest point on earth.

Mount Everest 8848m (29029ft)

Although This is a massive challenge I strongly believe he can do this, I've come to learn that Paul is a quick learner and listens to everything you tell him, he is very strong in body and mind and has the drive and determination to achieve anything he sets his mind on, he also a nice guy with a big heart and I am happy to have met him and now have him has a Friend, I'm sure we will climb many routes and mountains together in the future.

Whilst doing these climbs he is also trying to do an amazing thing by raising money for two charities, help for heroes and the Alexander Devine Children's Hospice. This is going to be an amazing achievement for him and his family if he pulls this off. Im sure he is going to go through hell at getting this done so I urge all of you my Friends to take a look at his web pages and see what you think, if your amazed at what he has achieved so far and what he is doing then please show your support by sponsoring him, remember every little penny counts and it will also show Paul that he has Friends and family behind him to get him to the top of the world....

You can follow Paul on his blog which is at or his personal website which is  you will also be able to find a link on here to his online sponsoring page.

I personally want to say a big good luck to Paul and well done mate on your training and achievements so far and remember mate keep safe at all times, the mountain will always be there...

Sunday, 14 August 2011

Tick fest...

Another day at Battleship today with lots of new ticks and also managing to complete all the new routes at the attik and veronda area at battleship, Myself and Paul managed to climb every grade from 3+ solo to 6c+ in one session, Paul also managed to get his first 6a lead before going on and onsighting "High Flyer" 6b. I managed to get the Crimpy 6c+ tick of "Itchycoo Park and also a pretty tough 6c called "A groovy kind of love". Overall another good day out.... finger board is defiantly paying off.

Paul Onsighting "Hanging out with Halo Jones" 6a

Kieron on "Hanging out with Halo Jones" 6a

Phil onsighting "Jurassic Bark" 7a

Phil on "Unload the funbags" 6b+

Darrell on "Spear of brocalli" 5+

Paul on "Heart of the Sun" 6a

Sunday, 7 August 2011

A Day of two halves

Dark Clouds and heavy rain greeted me on the drive to Portland today and there were many times when i thought of just driving back home, hanging the climbing shoes and chalk bag up and venturing out on the mountain bike instead.
I eventually arrived at reap land where i was greeted by Paul, he was sipping tea with the look of disappointment on his face, he probably felt the same way as me... pchysed to climb but unable to due to it pissing down with rain. anyway after a little chat we decided to head down to the rock face and see what things were like, it was only faintly spitting by now so we could at least get on some easy grades and get something done. We headed into a newly bolted area called the Veranda, All the routes here were pretty easy grade 5's other than a 6b+, but they were all pretty dry compared to the rest of the walls, we warmed up on them before I decided to have a go at a 6b+ called "When you were little you dreamed you were big". The climbing was really nice with a mono halfway up the route which linked the crux section, after this easy climbing lead to and awkward lower off, I pushed on through and managed to clip for the onsight. Paul then had a little play on toprope before deciding to save energy for his intended routes.With the main cliff still wet we moved onto another new area called the balcony, there was an interesting 7a there called "Jurassic Bark" which I liked the look off, we started by ticking off some of the easy grade 5's and 6's before i decided to give it a go. the climbing was fairly simple up until the over hang where the crux section began, a powerful undercut into a huge slap would see me to the top, anyway many attempts at working it finally unlocked the sequence for me to use, I was just about to give up and go home due to the stamina running out when Paul encouraged me to have one last go, after a few hard moves and groans I was finally happily ticking the lower off to get my redpoint. I accidently knocked a hold off to on the way down when stripping the route, not sure if it has affected the grade at all though.
Overall another good day out climbing with lots of snapping holds and cranking from Paul, lots of rain and sun and also lots of fun, being only two of us out today I was unable to get any photos, I did go and watch my Sarah dancing in the carnival though and that was pretty cool so here's a photo of her and her SJ dancers... well done today babe you were amazing.

SJ Dance studios Bournemoth carnival 2011
Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end