Sunday, 23 September 2012

Blandford Weasel

I headed into Portland again yesterday to meet up with Rob, this time I was opting to clip some bolts rather than usual days bouldering, I also had my two little ones with me to keep us amused for the day.
After warming up I jumped on the technical "Tipping the scales" 7a, this route being very technical and crimpy was certainly going to be a test piece for me. i played for a while and managed to link up all the moves other than one, with the sun shining hard and constant crimping the skin on the tips of my fingers was slowly wearing down. Rob had a little play and being super strong on the crimps managed his redpoint attempt, I did have another go on this route towards the end of the day and managed to work out the stuck move but feeling tired decided to leave the redpoint attempt until next visit.
Rob also managed to send another good 7a called "The vulcanites". i had a go too but needed to rest due to tiredness, pretty sure i can get this next go.
We ended up spending the rest of the day playing on the tough 7b "The blanford Weasel". this was very enjoyable but a really powerful crux, lots of different methods tried but we were still unable to unlock it, i found a way that worked for me but hard and still a little out of reach, i guess a project for the future.

I was gonna head out again today but weather has turned nasty so I guess a day in front of the telly with my girls is in line... perfect Sunday id say...

Soloing bottom section of " Tipping the scales"


Rob moving into the crux of "The blandford weasel"

cold weather and friction is what we need

Close to reaching a good hold through the crux of " Blandford Weasel"

Rob on "The Vulcanites"

"The Vucanites" 7a

Whats she up to...

The sign of tiredness and old age.

Playing games...

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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end