Sunday, 24 July 2011

more bolt clipping

Today I met up with Phil and Paul at battleship on Portland, this was Paul's first trip to the sunny island of Portland so he was in for some fun. we arrived at the crag and jumped on some easy routes to warm up, "The Ghost of Saturday night" 5+ and "Never drive a car when your dead" 6a, both really good routes which are great for warming up, we then moved on down the crag to a 7a+ called "Humanoid". Phil had been working this the day before and wanted to go for his redpoint attempt, with some great climbing with a few dynamic moves he was happily clipping the lower off to get his tick. I then went on to onsight "Chappquiddick" a really nice 6b with some great climbing. Paul also managed to climb this on toprope ( Well done mate).
After this I decided to try "One for the gipper" 6c... I moved up the route with some pretty tough climbing, I was just below the lower off when my foot slipped causing me to blow the onsight attempt...(Gutted).
Paul had a little play on toprope before i decided to go for my second go at it, i moved up the route and found it a bit easier knowing where to find the holds and managed to get the tick... Overall i felt this to be harder than judge jeffreys..the 6c+ I onsighted last week.

We finished the day off with Paul leading a slabby 4+ with some nice climbing, Phil also met him at the top to go through the art of threading the bolts to strip the route...

Overall another good day at the crag, I'm pretty keen on this area at Portland so I'm probably gonna spend a few summer days down here trying to get that ultimate tick....

Phil on "humanoid" 7a+

Paul on "Chappaquiddick" 6b

Me on "One for the Gipper" 6c

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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end