Saturday 12 February 2011

Keintel

We headed out of Kandersteg and up into the town of keintel today, the Ice seemed much more formed than the other locations we had visited this week, Myself and scott had spotted an interesting line called "Kei Fraua Kei Gschrei" Wi5+ the day before and we were both pretty keen to check it out.
After gearing up we decided to give it a go, I was on lead for the first pitch, the climbing was diffrent to Ice I had encountered before, the Ice was full of mushroom shaped ice, but I still managed to push on up fairly smoothly, after placing a few screws I eventually arrived at the first belay and scott arrived shortly after.
Scott was on to lead the second pitch, the climbing involved a hanging pillar into a corner then easing on up to a good belay ledge, scott displayed some fine climbing and pushed on up through the ice to the belay, I soon followed on up and move into the belay shelter.
The last pitch looked pretty technical, sustained and hard, it was my lead and to be honest I was feeling a little nervous about it, I decided to just go for it and see what happens. I pushed on up and came across a thin technical chimney of ice, I placed a few screws and moved on up, it seemed pretty hard but i manged to keep my cool and move onto easier ground. I could see a cave running up and through the ice onto the belay, i headed on up, I big lump of ice fell from the hanging ice and hit me on the arm causing some pain, I was now commited so had to push on, the hole behind the ice was pretty small, after getting myself into some strange positions and laughing quietly to myself I eventually maneged to crawl out the other side and onto the belay.
I brought scott on up, I was waiting for his reaction when he would get a glimpse of the cave he was about to come across, I new he was close when i heard the words" What the Fuck".... I was very amused and replied with " all about adventure mate", he eventually managed to get through and move on up to the balay... we sorted gear, talked abit about the interesting last pitch then abseil off the route and safely back to ground. All in all agreat route and very happy to have climbed it.



Me on pitch 1 of "Kei Fraua Kei Gschrei" Wi5+


Scott on pitch 2 of "Kei Fraua Kei Gschrei" Wi5+


Rob and Pete looked to be on a pretty hard Wi6 called "Vibrator", I was able to get some good shots of them from the belay on our climb and also from the floor once we arrived back down., they completed the route in style and both arrived safely back down on the ground.
Overall a Great days climbing... really looking forward to friday...me and scott have our eye on a hanging Wi6 pillar...





Rob on "Vibrator" Wi6

Pete following up the last pitch of "Vibrator" Wi6



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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end