Saturday, 2 April 2011

Afternoon Fun at portland

After struggling with flu the past few weeks my climbing hasn't been too good, plenty of feeling weak moments and failing on problems I normally cruise up down craggy I was feeling pretty shit. Sitting down today watching sharma on dreamcatcher suddenly sparked a bit of energy in me giving me an urge to shoot over to the cutting for the afternoon. Driving over I was wondering whether I was doing the right thing, still bunged up and aching like a fifty year old might not work for me today. Anyway me and Alisha arrived at the cuttings, I had forgotten the guidebook so decided to head to a V4 called "In Ya Face", I hadn't tried it before but had seen Phil onsight it earlier on in the year, anyway after loosing some skin and a few failed attempts I managed to get the tick.. We then move on round to the tank boulder where I managed to onsight another V4 called "crouching start,hidden agenda" this was a really cool route. I then completed a few easy V2 before deciding I had lost enough blood for one day..  A good afternoon all in all, was nice to spend some time with my little one and also nice to know I may be getting over this flu Shit! 

all Pictures of me are taken by my 7yr old daughter Alisha.....



"In Ya Face" V4  



"In Ya Face" V4




"In Ya Face" V4



"In Ya Face" V4





Alisha bouldering a V0-



"Captain Cook" V2



"Crouching Start, Hidden agenda" V4






Alisha with Chissel Beach behind

Wednesday, 30 March 2011

New Macro Lens

A few pictures Ive taken whilst learning how to use my new Macro Lens, I also recently purchased a new fisheye for the Nikon so keep your eyes open for hopefully good shots....













Sunday, 20 March 2011

7a+ for Mike...

Today wasnt really a good day for me climbing wise, felt weak. tired and not very comfy on the rock...however today did see Mike tick is first 7a+ in fine style... Well done mate, Below are some photos with my new macro lens from todays fun..



Black Diamond Chalk Bag

A Climbers Hand

Phil on "Appleturnover" 7a+

Phil on "Appleturnover" 7a+

Phil on "Appleturnover" 7a+

Mike on "Appleturnover" 7a+

Mike on "Appleturnover" 7a+

Mike on his succesful ascent of
 "Psychosomatic Addict" 7a+

Mike on his succesful ascent of
"Psychosomatic Addict" 7a+


Monday, 14 March 2011

Redpoint games...

Although I only climbed two routes today I still managed to leave the ground six times, after arriving at Blacknor north again and feeling the psyche I was determined to get a good tick. We warmed up on a really nice 6a called "Shit happens". this is a really nice route and I recommend it to anyone visiting the area, after both climbing this we moved on to a route called " Hysterical Solitude". It was graded at 6c and looked pretty full on at the start up until just over the bulge, Phil had been on the route before but failed the onsight after falling off the crux moves.
I decided to go straight for the onsight, i tied in and moved on up the route, it felt pretty hard and the holds were well hidden, looking around for holds took its toll and it wasn't long before i started to get pumped, i just managed to clip the draw on the crux before slipping and taking the fall. after a short rest and working the moves out I lowered to the ground. Phil tied in and attempted his redpoint attempt, he moved up pretty smoothly and moved on into the crux, using the techniques i had worked out he pushed on through the bulge onto easier ground before clipping the belay for his redpoint success. I was up next, i knew the moves so it should all go to plan right....yeah right. after a few silly mistakes and slips and four attempts later I finally managed the clean redpoint of the route. Although the route is graded at 6c I still felt pretty good after completing the route...

Another good day at the crag, now to get back on "Wolfgang Forever" and finish off some unfinished business.
Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end