Monday, 14 March 2011

Redpoint games...

Although I only climbed two routes today I still managed to leave the ground six times, after arriving at Blacknor north again and feeling the psyche I was determined to get a good tick. We warmed up on a really nice 6a called "Shit happens". this is a really nice route and I recommend it to anyone visiting the area, after both climbing this we moved on to a route called " Hysterical Solitude". It was graded at 6c and looked pretty full on at the start up until just over the bulge, Phil had been on the route before but failed the onsight after falling off the crux moves.
I decided to go straight for the onsight, i tied in and moved on up the route, it felt pretty hard and the holds were well hidden, looking around for holds took its toll and it wasn't long before i started to get pumped, i just managed to clip the draw on the crux before slipping and taking the fall. after a short rest and working the moves out I lowered to the ground. Phil tied in and attempted his redpoint attempt, he moved up pretty smoothly and moved on into the crux, using the techniques i had worked out he pushed on through the bulge onto easier ground before clipping the belay for his redpoint success. I was up next, i knew the moves so it should all go to plan right....yeah right. after a few silly mistakes and slips and four attempts later I finally managed the clean redpoint of the route. Although the route is graded at 6c I still felt pretty good after completing the route...

Another good day at the crag, now to get back on "Wolfgang Forever" and finish off some unfinished business.

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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end