Tuesday, 15 January 2013

Dragon Onsight...

I hooked up with my friend Paul Jackson today and we headed into Lulworth to check out the bouldering, I didn't really know much about the area other than the word of a really cool V7 called "The Dragon", there were a few other problems but this one seemed to be the one everyone talked about.
I was quite surprised to see a dusting of snow over the purbeck hills as i made the drive in, the sun was shining and the temperatures were low so i knew friction would be good.. The walk in was not the easiest with a recent land slide taking the usual path out of action, the steep banks were pretty slippery and felt pretty dangerous but other than a few small slips we eventually made it to the area.. the landings didn't seem the best and allot of the problems were in the water due to the tide being in ( Including the Dragon) but with the sun shining and beautiful scenery I wasn't that bothered. We warmed up on a few easy lines and put up a few new low grade routes.. I done a nice V3 called "Coke Can Arete" and Paul also managed to get a really cool V1 called "Grey Snapper". Both cool routes but pretty highball and a certain breakage landing.
The tide was now out so we stopped for a bite to eat while other routes dried out..
I leaned up the Holds a little and wiped away the seaweed then went for it, its a really cool line that goes up a prow on slopey holds, I somehow manged to stick the crux and and hold on to claim the onsight.. personally I would give it a grade of V6 but may be a little harder for the shorter. I was pretty happy with this as a few friends have said it was tough..
I also manged to climb the V6 "Right hand man" and V4 "Pocket rocket" in the same area. While Paul played on the moves of pocket rocket i took a little look around and spotted a really cool line around the side of the same rock we were on, Didn't look that hard but looked pretty cool, I cleaned the holds up and had a little play, I nearly onsighted it but fell on the last move, Due to tiredness i think but after a short rest I went again and manged to send it. I'm not sure if its been climbed before but i decided to call it "Shrek" and give it a grade of V4.
The tide was now starting to come in again so we decided to call it a day... Overall a really nice days bouldering, I'm not sure il return as other than the the routes I managed there wasn't much more to offer..
Time to rest for a day or two now before heading back to the boulderfield to play on Declassified..

Paul on an easy V1
Onsight of "The Dragon" V7
My New route "Shrek" V4
Good Days Bouldering

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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end