Monday, 28 January 2013
Friday, 18 January 2013
Cold Snap...
Another training day at winspit yesterday with lots of laps up and down the easier lines, the temps were pretty low and it was hard to tell if your hands were actually gripping the rock or not.. Mike managed to finally send "Pump me tenderly" which was pretty cool..
A big dump of snow meant an amazing morning with the girls making a snowman.. had so much fun, I wonder if this snow will stay or if I will be able to get back over to the boulderfeild Sunday to try tick Declassified...
A big dump of snow meant an amazing morning with the girls making a snowman.. had so much fun, I wonder if this snow will stay or if I will be able to get back over to the boulderfeild Sunday to try tick Declassified...
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| Early morning walk in with unpleasant skies |
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| Mike warming up on easy 6a |
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| laps on easy 6a.. get ya pump on.. |
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| Amazing garage door |
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| Mine and girls snow girl.. |
Tuesday, 15 January 2013
Dragon Onsight...
I hooked up with my friend Paul Jackson today and we headed into Lulworth to check out the bouldering, I didn't really know much about the area other than the word of a really cool V7 called "The Dragon", there were a few other problems but this one seemed to be the one everyone talked about.
I was quite surprised to see a dusting of snow over the purbeck hills as i made the drive in, the sun was shining and the temperatures were low so i knew friction would be good.. The walk in was not the easiest with a recent land slide taking the usual path out of action, the steep banks were pretty slippery and felt pretty dangerous but other than a few small slips we eventually made it to the area.. the landings didn't seem the best and allot of the problems were in the water due to the tide being in ( Including the Dragon) but with the sun shining and beautiful scenery I wasn't that bothered. We warmed up on a few easy lines and put up a few new low grade routes.. I done a nice V3 called "Coke Can Arete" and Paul also managed to get a really cool V1 called "Grey Snapper". Both cool routes but pretty highball and a certain breakage landing.
The tide was now out so we stopped for a bite to eat while other routes dried out..
I leaned up the Holds a little and wiped away the seaweed then went for it, its a really cool line that goes up a prow on slopey holds, I somehow manged to stick the crux and and hold on to claim the onsight.. personally I would give it a grade of V6 but may be a little harder for the shorter. I was pretty happy with this as a few friends have said it was tough..
I also manged to climb the V6 "Right hand man" and V4 "Pocket rocket" in the same area. While Paul played on the moves of pocket rocket i took a little look around and spotted a really cool line around the side of the same rock we were on, Didn't look that hard but looked pretty cool, I cleaned the holds up and had a little play, I nearly onsighted it but fell on the last move, Due to tiredness i think but after a short rest I went again and manged to send it. I'm not sure if its been climbed before but i decided to call it "Shrek" and give it a grade of V4.
The tide was now starting to come in again so we decided to call it a day... Overall a really nice days bouldering, I'm not sure il return as other than the the routes I managed there wasn't much more to offer..
Time to rest for a day or two now before heading back to the boulderfield to play on Declassified..
I was quite surprised to see a dusting of snow over the purbeck hills as i made the drive in, the sun was shining and the temperatures were low so i knew friction would be good.. The walk in was not the easiest with a recent land slide taking the usual path out of action, the steep banks were pretty slippery and felt pretty dangerous but other than a few small slips we eventually made it to the area.. the landings didn't seem the best and allot of the problems were in the water due to the tide being in ( Including the Dragon) but with the sun shining and beautiful scenery I wasn't that bothered. We warmed up on a few easy lines and put up a few new low grade routes.. I done a nice V3 called "Coke Can Arete" and Paul also managed to get a really cool V1 called "Grey Snapper". Both cool routes but pretty highball and a certain breakage landing.
The tide was now out so we stopped for a bite to eat while other routes dried out..
I leaned up the Holds a little and wiped away the seaweed then went for it, its a really cool line that goes up a prow on slopey holds, I somehow manged to stick the crux and and hold on to claim the onsight.. personally I would give it a grade of V6 but may be a little harder for the shorter. I was pretty happy with this as a few friends have said it was tough..
I also manged to climb the V6 "Right hand man" and V4 "Pocket rocket" in the same area. While Paul played on the moves of pocket rocket i took a little look around and spotted a really cool line around the side of the same rock we were on, Didn't look that hard but looked pretty cool, I cleaned the holds up and had a little play, I nearly onsighted it but fell on the last move, Due to tiredness i think but after a short rest I went again and manged to send it. I'm not sure if its been climbed before but i decided to call it "Shrek" and give it a grade of V4.
The tide was now starting to come in again so we decided to call it a day... Overall a really nice days bouldering, I'm not sure il return as other than the the routes I managed there wasn't much more to offer..
Time to rest for a day or two now before heading back to the boulderfield to play on Declassified..
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| Paul on an easy V1 |
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| Onsight of "The Dragon" V7 |
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| My New route "Shrek" V4 |
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| Good Days Bouldering |
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Sunday, 13 January 2013
Tick fest..
Another Awesome day in the boulderfeild on my quest to tick all recorded problems there, today I managed to send 14 more which wasnt to bad.. also had a go at an amazing V7 called "Declassified", probably a contender for best V7 on the island.. I headed in with Phil and Drew and they also managed to get some good ticks, Phil managed to send " Neil Armstrong" and came very close to getting "Declassified", There were loads more cool ticks with a few V6's and 5s and plenty more in the lower V grades.
Overall was a perfect day, lots of laughs, banter and good climbing, so psyched now to get back down there and start on the harder problems..
Overall was a perfect day, lots of laughs, banter and good climbing, so psyched now to get back down there and start on the harder problems..
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| Me ticking the one move wonder "Smoking Joe" V6 |
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| Phil working "Declassified" V7 |
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| Phil working "Declassified" V7 |
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| Drew sending "Silent Hill" V4, one of the toughest.. |
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| Drew on "Neil Armstrong" V6 |
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| Phil on "Neil Armstrong" V6 |
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| Phil on "The Fly" V5 |
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Friday, 11 January 2013
Clear Blue Skies..
Perfect weather for clipping bolts today, I headed into Winspit with a few guys from the Wessex club.. was good to climb some new routes and run up the classic pump me tenderly.. gotta say felt pretty easy even with the lack of mileage on the rock...
Looking forward to getting out bouldering Sunday, lets hope I can send hot ride :-)
Looking forward to getting out bouldering Sunday, lets hope I can send hot ride :-)
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| Swanage coast |
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| Paul playing on Pump me Tenderly |
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| Mike going for his Redpoint on Pump Me tenderly 6c+ |
Monday, 7 January 2013
Hidden Cove
Myself, Paul and Alisha headed into the boulderfeild again today, I wanted to continue on my quest to try and tick off every recorded boulder problem in the boulderfeild, Things wernt looking good though as the entire area was soaked, even the main wall was completely drenched and with no wind it would be some time before it dried, wanting to climb the only other place i could think of that may be dry was the hidden cove down by the lighthouse so we headed there.
Ive already climbed all the problems here other than a V5 called "a local problem for local people"
The rock was allot dryer here but the waves were a little close for comfort to the problems, we still climbed though and managed to get some stuff done, i came close to ticking the V5 but fell on the finishing hold, not sure how because i was solid, the fact i didn't think i was going to latch it didn't help as when i did i didn't quite know what to do.. other than let go...
I am off work now and i plan on training hard and getting out as much as possible, climbing and with my girls... I want to try and finsh the boulderfeild off before the end of febuary..
Below are few photos from the climbing and my little girls on boscombe beach..
Ive already climbed all the problems here other than a V5 called "a local problem for local people"
The rock was allot dryer here but the waves were a little close for comfort to the problems, we still climbed though and managed to get some stuff done, i came close to ticking the V5 but fell on the finishing hold, not sure how because i was solid, the fact i didn't think i was going to latch it didn't help as when i did i didn't quite know what to do.. other than let go...
I am off work now and i plan on training hard and getting out as much as possible, climbing and with my girls... I want to try and finsh the boulderfeild off before the end of febuary..
Below are few photos from the climbing and my little girls on boscombe beach..
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| Never fails to deliver |
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| Paul Keleher Portrait.. Jan 13 |
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| Alisha Harris Jan 13 |
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| Paul cruising Marshmellow |
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| Paul on Adams triumpth |
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| Me climbing the Scarey Traverse V2.. making it a little more scarey |
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| Cold Feet |
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| Coffee time again |
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| Alisha keeping warm.. |
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| Me on "A local problem for local people" V5 |
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| Boscombe Beach @tscoobydoo |
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| Angel May |
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| Angel May |
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| Alisha... |
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