Monday, 15 October 2012

Rough Landings...

Pretty Psched and looking for something new myself and paul headed down to the unknown boulders on Blacknor beach, this place is a death trap with some pretty crazy boulders and the some of worst landings ive ever seen, but on the other hand by searching we are starting to find some really nice problems and managing to put up some pretty cool first ascents. If you was to get some of these boulders and place then on a nice flat open ground they would definatly become wothwhile routes.
On walking down it wasnt long before we spotted a really nice looking boulder with a few small holds on, and although the landing not the best it also wasnt the worst, we moved some rocks around to try and make the landing zone a little more level. This was also good as it was warmimg us up ready to jump on the problem.. We started to play a little and at first it felt pretty desperate and i was starting to think it was too hard and maybe we should move on, but by keeping at it we started to open a tough sequence that may work, after a few attempts and dangerous falls i managed to send the route, due to the nature of the amount of skin it took from my fingers I decided to call it "First Blood", at first I would of graded it around the V6 mark but I think once you know the sequence the grade may get V4-5, it will surely be harder for the shorter. Paul kept trying for some time and was making good progress but didnt have the reach to make the moves I was so decided to go look for something else. we packed up and continued to search for some while, we spotted loads of really good lines but all the landings pretty awful, with some work and commitment there is definatly allot of potential down here, If you are gonna head down I suggest taking a large number of mats and maybe some bars to move some of the larger blocks.
We finished the day off up in the fort climbing some of the easier lower grade problems... Overall A nice day and good to be putting up new problems, we stopped for a Mocha on the way home and its probably the worst we have ever had, that bad that mr coffee himself paul is thinking of writing a letter of complaint...

Paul pulling hard on "First Blood"

First blood FA

Paul climbing a nice V2 in the higher Fort area

Paul getting angry is pretty

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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end