Sunday, 27 October 2013

A Different Game

With weather not great and feeling pretty psyched to train and climb I decided to head out on the tools today. I headed to my training cave at winspit, although not a 3 star area it does give a good training cave away from the sport climbing and any possible rival problems, id put up a route here last year called "Smackdown" so wanted to head back down and have a play. I warmed up and felt pretty strong, i looked at a possible link up of the warm up line into the original smackdown, after a couple of goes i was happy to link it and make the tick, I think the grade still gets around M7 but the climbing goes on for allot longer.
I finished up warming down and watching the weather batter the south coast, the walk back to the car was going to be wet. I decided to go and look at Rob Gibsons " A different Game". Graded at M10 and not having a second ascent yet i was keen to have a look. I had been on the route a few years back with Scott Swalling and to be honest it felt pretty desperate for both of us. but psyched and wanting to push it i wasn't going to let that stop me.
The line takes the roof of a cave in the south western quarry, its around 12 metres long and apart from the starting pillar is completely horizontal until the finish, with the roof not being that high its not possible to lead it, it needs to be climbed by putting a fixed line in place then using a lanyard for protection.
I had a good look at the route and its seems very loose and dirty, i spent around an hour on cleaning the first section and plan on heading down again and cleaning it up, once clean I'm pretty psyched to spend some time trying to work the route and get that tick.

I've been climbing at Winspit now for over 10 years and i was quite shocked to see the amount of rubbish lying around, so please if you do read this and love climbing and the area as much as I do then take your rubbish home. I may even consider taking some black bags down and personally cleaning the area up.

Stormy weather on the south Coast


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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end