Saturday, 10 August 2013

Ignoring the bolts

Deep down My love for the mountains as always shined way above the thought of clipping bolts at the local sport venues, don't get wrong I love sport climbing and the power and endurance you need to climb some of these routes but if hand on heart and speaking the truth it doesn't give me the same feeling as I get when traditionally climbing a big mountain route or soloing and easier graded trad line.. Today I headed into Hedbury with my friend Paul Jackson, the plan was to get some mileage in climbing in my B3 mountaineering boots and climb all the lower graded routes without the bolts using my own protection, Previously id already climbed a few of the harder lines here traditionally like "jumping the gun" and moves of masses, but today climbing in B3's I wasn't going to push much above the 5's, we done fair few laps on the easier routes climbing them in big boots and placing the odd  nut on the way up, I think all the routes at hedbury can be climb without bolts so if your into that its defiantly worth it. As the day came to an end I was feeling strong and wanting to solo something so I made my way down to the waters edge and found a line running up the edge of the great hedbury cave so decided to go for it, the climbing no harder than a 5+ easy 6a but, without a rope can feel scary and tougher... still for some reason I love the feeling of the freedom and being alone on the wall..

With only four weeks left to the Matterhorn trip the trainings going well, apart from a slight twinge in my leg and ankle I'm feeling pretty strong and ready, Currently trying to run around 8miles a day and gym work so lets hope come next month il be in a great position to hopefully have success on the mountain..

Thanks Paul for a good day and getting some cool pics of me soloing :-)

Forgot my nut key.. maybe this will encourage others to try the
routes traditional style..

Soloing up the edge of Hedbury cave..

Don't slip now...

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Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are
naught without prudence, and that a momentary negliance may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; Look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end